Belum Caves - The Last Abode

Caves are abodes of Gods and Goddesses. Since ancient times, numerous cave architectures have been developed all over India and likes of Ajanta - Ellora and Elephanta cave systems have been famous across India. But do these cave structures really qualify as cave structures or these are places of intricate carvings through rocks and mountains? Probably the above mentioned caves have become famous for their sculptures and paintings but while I visited Belum caves in Kurnool district, then only I realized what a cave structure is like.
The Belum caves are millions of years old. An exploratory expedition unearthed clay vessels from these caves, dating back to 4500 B.C. The caves were first noticed, surveyed and explored sometime around 1884 by an European H.B. Foote. The latest and detailed exploration was done by a team headed by German speleologist Herbert. Lead by Deniel Gebauer from 1982 to 1984, a team explored and mapped the caves to an extent of nearly three and half kilometers. However currently only one and half kilometers of length is accessible to public. The cave system totally extends to 3225 meters in length, 10 meters high and 40 meters deep from the surface of the earth.
The main passage of the caves is a horizontal one, after a descent of 20 meters. There are three well like cavities which owe to formation of sink holes. One of the sink hole has been used for descending into the caves and after treating the side walls of sink hole, steps have been provided to get down to the cave systems. Using bores through the surface, couple of ventilation cum air circulation mechanism have been set up which provides refreshingly cool air throughout the caves.
As one walks through the caves, it turns out to be a breathtaking experience. On the ceiling and on the floor are the fantastic artworks of nature created by stalactite and stalagmite formations. There are a number of spacious chambers, passage, fresh water galleries and siphons. The soft light illumination adds to the beauty of the formations. There is a small yet perennial stream flowing from the southeast to the northwest, disappearing and believed to be heading towards the well at the Bellum village. A natural lingam is said to have formed at the patalganga.
The natural cave system is probably one of world's largest natural geological formations yet it is unexplored. The different cuts and lacerations through different strata of calcium carbonate and other calcium compounds gives it internal textures and carving. As of now only the caves up to a length of 3225 meters were cleared and thereafter further exploration was stopped. For geologists and researchers, interested in study of sink holes and natural stalactite and stalagmite formation, it is probably the best site in Asia.
The property declared as such as protected area is under administrative and management control of Andhra Pradesh Tourism department and they have done pretty good job of beautifying and managing it. Couple of big halls inside the cave system carry folk lore about deep meditations undertaken by Saints and followers of Buddhism. A giant statute of Lord Buddha symbolizes the connections with Buddhism carried through folklores.
The place can be reached through airports at Hyderabad, Chennai and Tirupati. So any places signifying rich cultural heritage in and around Kadappa!! The place is set for international glory!

Those of you interested in study of geological formations, visit to Bellum caves would be the most enriching experience, I can assure.
Courtsey : Andhra Pradesh Tourism Corporation Ltd.
For more information - APTCL, (+91)8518-250335,252087
Belum Caves (+91) 8510-236633

The Election saga continues... The Gandikota Fort and Belum Caves

We had an eventful election in Kadappa. Living up to its hard earned reputation, Kadappa did offer those stray incidents of violence and breaking up of the Electronic Voting Machines. So, that meant we had to stay a little longer to complete the fresh poll process. We were mentally prepared to have Repoll on 25th and then move back to homes on 26th. The ECI decided otherwise. They fixed date of repoll on 26th holding us for one additional day and at the same time effectively giving us one free day on 25th.

And that's how we planned more excursions in to Rayalseema heartland. The explorations in Kadappa had been eye openers and were contrary to our perception with which we had arrived. We had visualized a dry district which would suffer from prolonged spells of scarcity. However, what we have seen is a district, most parts of which are busy reaping third crop. Well laid out canal irrigation system seemed to be hallmark of the district.

Back to sojourn of 26th, we decided to visit Gandikota fort and thereafter if time permitted, to visit Belum caves. The literature provided by the district administration had mentioned Gandikota fort as historically site built around A.D.1122. It derived its name from "Gandi" meaning Gorges and "Kota" meaning Fort. It is located about 75 kms from Kadappa towards Jammalmadugu and on the bank of river Pennar. Entirely a stone masonary fort built upon a hill along the natural george formation along river Pennar, the construction began in A.D. 1122 and then improvements and additions continued throughout upto 17th century AD. According to Kaiifiyat, a certain Kakaraja is credited with constructing the fort, palace and residential units inside.







The fort has a huge entrance gate of 20 feet high and 101 bastions each over 40 feet high. The front gate is made up of wood and is armored with iron plates. (Probably Indians were experts in use of metal, mechanical instruments like rope, pulleys, wooden rollers till the beginning of 13th century AD, but there after lack of focus on research meant that it stagnated there and European countries took lead in navigation and scientific leading to colonization of so many countries between 18th and middle of 20th century).






Within the fort, there are many interesting places worth seeing. The Ranganatha and Madhava Swamy temples were built during the 15th and 16th centuries are adorned with sculptures of style reminiscent of style of Vijayanagaram emperor. The amazing stone masonry carries trademark pillars with sculptures of a rider riding a lion which is sitting on top of elephant head. It conveyed a message that the ruler not only contains and controlled the mighty like the elephant, but also like the lion. Another interesting sculpture presents view of an ox from one side and elephant from the other side.







There is a large granery which could store food for over two years' requirement. The granery almost 25 feet high had small windows resembling ventillations near top and only one door for the netry. Normally the pheasants were charged 25% of their grains as tax and that was stored from the top into the granery. That ensured that except for those concerned with affairs of granery, no body had any idea of total storage and that helped in keeping the enemy guessing. Ofcourse there after many windows and large entrance gate were added and the granery was converted in to a guest house for visit of company representative (During British rule). Currently there is a marvellous sculpture of Lord Laxman in intact position found during excavation near the river.

Then there are an impressive pigeon tower a palace with plastered decorations, Jumma masjid with towering minerats ensconing a large area(consturcted around 1650 AD) and Rayal Cheruvu with perenial springs, ruins of palace, intact stables and residential rooms for visitors and open air theatre cum wrestling ground for kings' wrestlers. It is said that during Krishnadev rai's time, a strong army of 85000 soldiers used to guard this fort.






The surrounding site with natural deep gorges along the river Pennar and its dark green calm water, Mylavaram dam and surroundign hills offer feast to the eyes.

Kadappa : Sidhout fort

Today I made a visit to Badvel assembly area. I did all election related formalities, which I have decided to keep out of this blog. Besides that, I got an opportunity to visit "Rangamantapa Sidhout Fort". This is ancient ruined city located 25kms from Kadappa along the Tirupati highway. This is originally 10th Century AD fort built originally in mud. Matli kings occupied the area and rebuilt the fort using stones in 1303 AD.




Now the ruins stand on the bank of river Pennar and are spread over 30 acres. Magnificent gateways on two sides have embellished pillars and intricate carvings of Gajalakshmi. The top square bastions which have protected and preserved the area so far offers very good sight. Additional special feature of the fort was provision of an ancillary passage allowing people to enter even when the town and gates were closed.




The Archaeological Survey of India, which possesses the site has recently undertaken renovation of the fort. Not sure whether they intend to restore the fort to its past glory in looks and appearance or it is a case of their plans and designs going awry, but the new renovation gives it altogether different look, then the appearance preserved over close to a thousand years.I have taken couple of snaps and hope these will interest you.

Election duty to Kadappa district

So, I have been assigned election duty. The assignment was full of suspense and drama. The portal created for the observers by the election commission, till the previous day showed no assignment of election duty. The election commission had already completed deployment of observers for all five rounds by then and hence I was under impression that I had been exempted as I would be handling law and order and deployment of police force in Gujarat state. But such was not to be.

Yesterday, I got a surprise call, informing me of election duty allotment in Cuddapah (Kadappa) district in Andhra pradesh and asking me to make a move immediately as desired by the commission. I had to reason out that if the commission took so much time in assigning me election duty, then I definitely deserve some time before making a move. The messenger agreed to my proposal of moving on Sunday.

Coming from north India, the area in the south has always fascinated me. I got good number of opportunities in the past to visit south. During my early career assignment with Indian Railways, I stayed in Secunderabad. Thereafter during Bharat Darshan ( tour of india), I visited Andhra pradesh, Tamilnadu and Kerala along the coast. In year 2004, during training with IIM, Bangalore in project management, I visited Bangalore, Mysore and Ooty. All previous visits had created certain impression regarding socio-economic and infrastructure related profile of all these states. I have always held the view that people in south are more sincere, hardworking, contained and satisfied lot. I was also under impression that infrastructure in south, barring Bangalore town was better compared to north India. Employment opportunities for people were also better in view of so many IT/ITES industries and English oriented education system. However my journey from Bangalore to Kadappa presented a different scenario.

The Karnataka border extends to about 100 kms from Bangalore. However the condition of roads and villages along the road presented a reality strikingly different from my perception. The roads are just pathetic and full of potholes. The public transport is there but quality of buses is very bad. The economy is mostly based on agriculture, though people seemed to be content. There appears to be some move for diversification towards horticulture. The villages are not properly laid out and there seems to be no system of collecting garbage or sweeping the streets.

Once we enter in to the Andhra Pradesh border, the road improves a bit. The socio-economic status remains the same as it is in Karnataka. On way, we passed through one particular reserve forest area and you know what, it is home to Red Sandalwood Plantations!!! The trees are lean though the stem looks very rough and thick by all standards. On my arrival to Kadappa, I am told that though it is world famous location for Red Sandalwood, but there is neither red nor sandalwood in to it. Seems that people in south apply reddish sandal paste on their forehead and then lot of it is exported to Japan legally or illegally. Though it is a forest area, it does not provide habitat to wild life.

Oh and well, I have completed reading informative literature on kadappa. Seems the district has a rich and colourful history. The colours in old era were provided by rich natural resources, investment in water harvesting hundreds of years ago, rich agricultural practices and wars amongst rulers and sultans in the past and spike in naxalism and insurgency in the recent times. Hope the assignment will provide me happy and memorable engagement.